How do you glue a table tennis rubber?

Peel the old rubber off slowly, make sure the blade is clean and sealed, then spread a thin, even coat of water-based glue on both the blade and the rubber's sponge. Wait until the glue is dry and clear, line the rubber up from the handle, roll it flat, trim it, and add edge tape.

What you need

• Water-based, VOC-free glue, such as ​Andro Turbo Fix 90ml​ (also in a ​50ml size​), ​Tibhar Power Clue - Glue 100ml​, ​Joola Lex Green Power 100ml​, ​Tibhar VS Top Glue 90ml​ or ​Donic Blue Contact Glue 90ml​. Alternatively, a glue sheet such as ​Donic Gluing Foil​.
• A sponge applicator. Many glues include sponges; spare packs such as ​Andro 25 sponges + clip​ are handy.
• A blade sealer if your blade is unsealed: ​Donic Sealing Pro​, ​Joola Sealing Varnish 100ml​ or ​Andro Free Seal 25g​.
• A roller, or a clean ball tube or rolling pin.
• Sharp scissors or a craft knife for trimming.
• Edge tape, such as ​Andro Edge Tape Colours (5m)​, in 10 mm or 12 mm to match your blade plus both rubbers.

Work on a clean, flat surface, away from dust.

Step 1: Remove the old rubber

Take off any edge tape. Starting at the tip of the blade, lift a corner of the rubber and peel it back slowly towards the handle, keeping it close to the blade surface. Pulling it upwards or quickly is the most common way to tear wood fibres off the blade. If the rubber resists, go slower rather than harder. Rub off any glue left on the blade with your thumb; most water-based glues roll off easily.

Step 2: Clean and seal the blade

The surface should be clean, dry and free of old glue. If your blade is unsealed, it is worth sealing it before the first gluing. Sealer protects the top veneer so it does not tear when you change rubbers later. Donic says Sealing Pro protects the wood from tearing when you peel off old rubbers without changing how the blade plays, and that unsealed blades need two coats. Andro's instructions for Free Seal are two coats at least four hours apart, then 12 hours to dry after the second coat. Printed blades are usually already sealed. Always follow your sealer's own instructions.

Step 3: Apply thin, even coats

Put a small amount of glue on the blade and spread it with the sponge into a thin, even layer that covers the whole face. Do the same on the sponge side of the rubber. Thin coats are better than thick ones: thick glue takes longer to dry, adds weight and can leave lumps under the rubber. Some players apply a second thin coat to the rubber sponge once the first is dry, especially on large-pored sponges.

Different glues behave differently, so read the instructions for the one you use. Andro says Turbo Fix works with sponges of all pore sizes and is particularly suited to unsealed blades. Donic says Blue Contact Glue is tailor-made for large-pore sponges such as its Bluefire series. See the ​Andro Turbo Fix instructions​ and ​Tibhar's gluing guide​.

Step 4: Wait until the glue is dry and clear

Water-based glue goes on white and turns clear as it dries. Wait until both surfaces are fully clear and no longer wet to the touch. Drying time depends on the product, the thickness of the coat and the room. For example, Tibhar quotes a drying time of 5 to 10 minutes for Power Clue. If in doubt, wait longer; sticking the rubber on while the glue is wet is the main cause of bubbles and weak bonding. The ​Open TT guide to glue and curing​ explains why.

Step 5: Line up from the handle and roll

Hold the rubber over the blade with the logo at the handle end. Line the bottom edge up with the start of the blade face, just above the handle, and lay the rubber down gradually from the handle towards the tip. Then roll from the centre outwards with firm, even pressure to push out any air.

The logo position matters. ITTF Regulation 3.2.1.3 says the rubber must be attached so that "the ITTF logo, the ITTF number (when present), the supplier and brand names are clearly visible nearest the handle" (​ITTF Statutes 2026​).

Step 6: Trim the rubber

Turn the bat face-down on a hard surface and cut around the edge of the blade with sharp scissors or a craft knife, following the blade's outline. Keep the blade edge as your guide and cut in smooth, long strokes. Under Law 2.4.5 the covering may extend up to, but not beyond, the edge of the blade.

Step 7: Edge tape and rest

Edge tape protects the rim of the blade from knocks and helps stop the rubber edges lifting. Start at the handle, wrap the tape round the edge with even tension, and finish back at the handle. Then repeat the process for the other side. If your glue's instructions give a resting time before play, follow it.

Glue rules: VOC-free only

Old "speed glues" contained volatile organic compounds (VOCs). The ITTF stopped approving them in 2007 and introduced zero-tolerance racket testing from 1 September 2008 (​ITTF VOC glue statement​). Today you should only use a water-based or VOC-free glue made for table tennis. All the glues linked above are described by their manufacturers as VOC-free or water-based.

Want more on what makes a bat legal? Read our ​guide to equipment rules​. Once your rubbers are on, keep them in good condition with our ​cleaning and care guide​, and see ​how long table tennis rubbers last​.

FAQ

How do you glue a new rubber on a table tennis bat?

Apply a thin, even coat of water-based glue to the blade and to the rubber's sponge. Wait until both are dry and clear, lay the rubber down from the handle end, roll it flat from the centre outwards, trim it to the blade, and finish with edge tape.

How long should glue dry before sticking the rubber?

Until it has turned fully clear and is no longer wet. Drying times vary by product: Tibhar quotes 5 to 10 minutes for Power Clue. Thicker coats and cold rooms take longer, so always follow your glue's instructions.

What glue is legal?

Water-based or VOC-free glues made for table tennis. Glues containing volatile organic compounds have not been approved by the ITTF since 2007, and rackets are tested on a zero-tolerance basis.

Do I need to seal my blade?

It is strongly recommended for unsealed blades. Sealer protects the top veneer from tearing when you peel off old rubbers. Printed blades are usually already sealed. Follow the sealer's instructions on coats and drying time.

Where should the ITTF logo be?

Nearest the handle. Regulation 3.2.1.3 requires the ITTF logo, ITTF number when present, supplier and brand names to be clearly visible nearest the handle.

Can I reuse a rubber after removing it?

Often, yes, if you peel it off slowly and the sponge is undamaged. Remove the old glue carefully, then reglue as normal. Rubbers can stretch slightly when removed, so trimming may need care.

How do I stop bubbles?

Use thin coats, let the glue dry completely, lay the rubber down gradually from the handle end, and roll from the centre outwards. Bubbles usually mean the glue was still wet or a thick coat dried unevenly.

Everything to re-rubber your bat

Glue, sealer, edge tape and new sheets, all from one UK shop. Browse ​table tennis glue​, ​edge tape​ and ​rubbers​.